Limited Release

Dugat-Py Côte de Nuits Reds 2023

Published: September 5, 2025

Author: Brett Taylor

Dugat-Py’s minuscule production wines, all hand-harvested, old-vine, organically farmed Pinot Fin (sometimes called True Pinot), are some of the most sought-after wines from the appellation and are among the best wines I’ve had from the 2023 vintage.

Raised slowly and carefully in an ancient abbey built in the 11th century, Loïc’s wines reverently encapsulate the very best of contemporary Burgundy – deeply concentrated wines with explosive flavors, chiseled tannins and a peacock tail of a finale in a package that rarely exceeds a moderate level of alcohol or ripeness. Visiting the cellar and tasting these wines was the closest thing to a religious experience I have had in my wine career. When I tasted these wines last fall, I understood what it must have been like to be at the first Who concert when Roger Daltrey introduced that legendary scream on “Won’t Get Fooled Again”.

“So, I once again encourage readers to put outdated stereotypes of excessive oak and over-extraction to one side and try what is being produced today, as these are bottles that number among the finest that contemporary Burgundy has to offer.”

-William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Dugat-Py

About the Domaine

The celebrated estate of Dugat-Py, located at the base of the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin, has been producing world-class wines for decades. While the exterior of the house impresses with its mid-16th century architecture, it is the aging cellar that is truly spectacular. The cellar, or L’Aumônerie, is essentially a small abbey that was built by the Diocese of Dijon in the 11th century — making it the oldest cellar in Burgundy today.

In 1975, Bernard Dugat purchased vines in Gevrey and produced his first wines. The creation of the two separate family estates came about in 1994: Domaine Claude Dugat and Domaine Dugat-Py. Py is the maiden name of Bernard’s wife, Jocelyne. In 1996, their son, Loïc, joined the family business. He is now at the helm of the Domaine and started their conversion to organic viticulture in 1999, gaining full accreditation in 2003.

Today the family owns 23.5 acres of Pinot Noir and 2.5 acres of Chardonnay, including the original vineyards located in Gevrey. Loïc is passionate about old vines, always searching for old parcels of Pinot Fin or Chardonnay. This dedication has resulted in the domaine now owning vines that range from 65 to more than 100 years old in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. Consequently, nearly every wine in the line-up is designated either as Vieilles Vignes or Très Vieilles Vignes. They tend to these mature vineyards with meticulous care, using homemade biodynamic teas throughout (they are certified biodynamic). The 1er Cru and Grand Cru sites are horse-plowed. The vines are never trimmed, allowing the canopies to reach a height of seven or eight feet in the summer months.

The family has always produced classic Vins de Garde: deep in color, with explosive fruit and chiseled tannins. However, since Loïc has taken over, there has been a clear evolution, not only in the vineyards but also in the winery, Loïc does not chaptalize, acidify, inoculate or add anything to juice, sulfur is only added prior to bottling. And while the wines are still deep and powerful, they have more balance and finesse than ever. Also never elevated, the alcohol rarely surpasses 13.5%, and harvest now occurs on the earlier side to retain freshness and elegance.

Available Wines

Bourgogne Cuvée Halinard 2023

Declassified Gevrey-Chambertin vines, aged 15 to 18 months in oak barrels, 10% new.
Gevrey-Chambertin VV 2023

From vines planted between 1965 and 1985. Old vines of Pinot Fin that generate very low yields and naturally concentrated berries. Classic glass of Gevrey – spicy, savory and dark red fruit with slightly more pronounced tannins.
Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de Roy TVV 2023

A blend of several sites within Gevrey (Les Epointures, Combe de Dessus, Jouise and Les Marchais). Extremely old vines of Pinot Fin that are a minimum of 50 years old with some vines planted as far back as 1910 that generate very low yields and naturally concentrated berries.
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles TVV 2023

From a 0.75 hectare vineyard planted in 1950 above Champeaux and Cazetiers. It has a sharp incline and many stones. Loic considers this to be the best of the villages vineyards and should be 1er Cru. Linear and fresh, more mineral than earthy, with great flesh. 150-200 cases produced in total.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux TVV 2023

From two parcels near Mazis – one is 60 years old, the other 80.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle TVV 2023

From a 0.4-hectare parcel planted in 1964. Just below Chambertin at the top of Petite Chapelle. Never more than 125 cases produced in the biggest vintages. One of Loïc’s favorites in ’23.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques VV 2023

From vines planted in the 1970s, one parcel towards the top of the cru, the other in the middle. A little over 60 cases made and a favorite of the vintage alongside the Petite Chapelle.
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru TVV 2023

From a mix of 55-year-old vines and 90 year-old vines. One-third of this bottling comes from a plot of Mazoyères-Chambertin, about 164 feet away from Dugat-Py’s other Mazoyères parcel, which is bottled separately. The other two plots are from hauts Charmes. Two plots of 90 year-old and 50 year-old vines located right at the edge of Charmes du Dessus by Chambertin. Perfectly balanced, very pretty, flamboyant style with ripe red fruit perfumed with rose petal. Gorgeous. About 150-200 cases produced at a maximum.
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru TVV 2023

From a 0.79-hectare plot that is 60 years old. Fermented with 90% whole cluster. Aging 16 to 18 months in 30% new oak barrels. Fewer than 85 cases produced ever.
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru TVV 2023

From three parcels making up 0.79 hectare and planted in 1964. Dark and powerful with hints of cherry and licorice. While Charmes shows the same flamboyant character throughout its life, Mazi needs 10+ years before transforming from powerful and serious to beautifully elegant and finessed. Around 85 cases produced.