Decanted

Beaune Is Back

Beaune is back! That was the feeling we had last fall when tasting in Burgundy.

At one point, Beaune’s Premier Cru Greves traded at Chambertin levels. Then the big négociant houses—Bouchard, Chanson, Latour, Drouhin—dominated the vineyards. There were some standouts like Bouchard’s Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus and Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches, but by and large Beaune became known for charming “bistro wines” rather than serious, collectible Burgundy.

Times change.

Photo Courtesy of Vins de Bourgogne

Today’s offering showcases three producers rewriting Beaune’s reputation. Younger, smaller vignerons are discovering accessible vineyards here and crafting wines that demand attention. Charodon’s Chouacheux is made from a different Pinot clone in this vineyard, creating lifted aromatics and a lighter style not typically found in Beaune. Chancelier’s refined precision perfectly matches Bressandes’ natural structure. Dugat-Py acquired this tiny half-acre of old vines in Clos des Aveaux from the defunct Domaine Newman—and elevated an already excellent wine to gorgeous new heights.

Drink now or cellar—either way, these bottles prove Beaune deserves serious consideration again.

Available Wines

Charodon Beaune 1er Cru Les Chouacheux 2022

Self-described “grape conductor” and energizer bunny in human form, Louis Vallet is making waves with his family’s Charodon estate. The plan is to return to entirely domaine sites eventually, but for now, he is content scouring the Burgundian landscape for parcels of vines that allow him to showcase real terroir. This is an address where oak is present for texture over flavor and no detail is left to chance. The vines in his parcel of Les Chouacheaux are a separate clone of Pinot, crafting a wine lighter in color and frame than typically found in this part of Burgundy.
Domaine du Chancelier Maison du Chancelier Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes 2022

Elsa and Cédric Ehrhart might be some of the most industrious and hardworking winemakers we have ever met. Every task is met with fastidiousness and precision including harvesting entirely by hand in small boxes and employing very minimal intervention. The wines from Chancelier are energetic and finely tuned.
Dugat-Py Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux VV 2022

Loïc Dugat-Py is among the most respected vignerons in Burgundy today. Historically known for the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, this is part of his acquisition of the now-extinct Domaine Newman. What was most compelling about this purchase was that the vines had been left dormant for over a decade, essentially wiping the slate clean for Loïc to employ his stringent organic methods to these very old vines. This holding is only about a ½ acre, of which Newman made an excellent example of this 1er Cru.