Decanted

A Michelin-Starred Chef’s Châteauneuf

Published: September 30, 2026
Author: Madison Varunok

“People who love to eat are always the best people.” Julia Child was spot on…and I’d say the exact same about people who love wine. Jérôme Gradassi has made a life of both: first as a Michelin-starred chef in Avignon, and now making Châteauneuf-du-Pape from his family’s vines.

In 2003, he sold his acclaimed restaurant, L’Isle Sonnante. He returned to his family’s five-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which was founded in 1930 and farmed by his grandfather. Trading whisks and ovens for pruning shears and barrels, he taught himself how to make wine. Up until his recent retirement, he was the smallest producer in the appellation, making the kinds of wines sommeliers tend to keep to themselves.

The family’s parcels lie north of the village, on cooler clay and sandy soils that Jérôme said favor finesse over sheer power. He did everything (and we mean everything) by hand. After fermenting whole bunches with native yeasts, he would lift the juice and skins out with a bucket and a rope, a job that could take up to a week. He then aged the wine in older barrels for 10 months.

After a career spent thinking about the plate, it’s only natural that Jérôme made wines that belong at the table. While much Châteauneuf leans big and heavy, his is lifted and silky, with a freshness that keeps you going back to both the glass and the food. The 2023 blends Grenache and Mourvèdre, and it’s all silky red fruit, wild Provençal herbs, and warm spice. It’s completely dry and savory, with high tones that balance its generous structure. I’d pour it alongside these mouthwatering Lamb Burgers with some crispy fries.

The 2023 marks Jérôme’s final vintage, so these are the last bottles from a one-of-a-kind producer.

 

Available Wines

  • Domaine Jérôme Gradassi Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023

     

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